فصلنامه علوم و فناوری نساجی
سال هفتم شماره 1 (بهار 1397)

Electrospinning is a relatively simple, versatile, and cost-effective technique to produce nanofibers. Majority of studies are focused on electrospinning of synthetic polymers. However, electrospinning of natural polymers is emerging as these polymers are generally better candidates for biomedical engineering application due to their outstanding biodegradation and biocompatibility properties. Gelatin is highly hydrophilic polymer with low cost, low immunogenicity, high biocompatibility, high biodegradability, and good cell-adhesive structure that is widely in industry and research projects. The aforementioned properties make gelatin a desir able candidate for the development of biomaterials for various applications. The electrospinning method was employed for production of gelatin nanofibers. The morphology of the nanofibers was characterized using scanning electron microscope (SEM). The miscibility of blend was determined using SEM and Fourier transform infrared spectrometer (FTIR) and differential scanning calorimeter (DSC). The optimum condition for production of bead-less nanofibers with the fiber diameter in the range of 80 - 380 nm was determined.

The aim of this research is to find optimum conditions for water repellency finishing of polyester and cotton fabric In this paper, the response surface methodology is employed for the design of experiments and optimization. Temperature and duration of the finishing process were considered as the main factors affecting the process. The objectives were to obtain a high level of water repellency, air permeability, tensile strength, and wash-fastness tolerance at the same time. The samples were immersed in the solution of RUCO-GUARD® fluorocarbon and the finishing process was carried out at various temperatures and durations. The analysis of variance (ANOVA) showed that these parameters significantly affected all of the objectives. Further, the interaction of two factors was significant in some cases which resulted in nonlinear surfaces. By choosing some arbitrary degrees of importance for the objectives in the multi-objective optimization module of Design expert software, the optimal levels of factors were found. The successful application of the response surface methodology is promising for optimization of other textile application such as dyeing and color matching to name a few.

Machine-woven carpets are pile fabrics. Warp and weft yarns are used for making the backing surface an piles (i.e., upright loops or strands of yarns) are covering the upper surface of carpets. In this study, the relations between structural parameters of machine-woven carpets namely weft and warp yarns density, pile yarns count and kind of warp yarn denting with recovery after dynamic loading, thickness variation in static loading and finally the mass variation during the hexapod walker carpet tester were evaluated. Two pile yar counts (i.e. 18/3 Nm and 33/3 Nm), two levels of warp density 700 and 1200 per meter, two kind of dentin of warp yarn (i.e. one and two warp yarns per dent), and three levels of weft density (i.e., 2550,3000, and 350 per meter) were used to produce the samples. The results showed that the highest value of compressibility in dynamic loading was varied between 40.16% and 23.97%. The lowest value of mass variation in tetrapod walker testing was obtained in sample woven with highest value of warp and weft density. Moreover, bincreasing the count of pile yarn and the initial thickness of sample, the mass reduction was increased accordingly.

In the present study, the seam failure mechanism as a function of tensile loads is investigated in more details in ord to be used as a guide for the seam design to improve the seam performance. To this end, the seam strength of various common clothing fabrics was examined. The fabrics were different in terms of density, weight and yarn count. The samples were prepared with various sewing parameters such as stitch type, stitch density, and seam allowance. The seam strength was measured by a tensile testing machine. After the seam rupture, some photos were taken to inspect the reason for the seam failure. The results showed that based on the fabric tensile strength and sewing parameter the interaction between fabric and sewing thread may differ and lead to three seam break mechanisms. It was found that the inspection of the fabric structure before seam design is beneficial for the correct selection of the sewing parameters and enhancing the seam efficiency.

Determining criteria and characteristics used for evaluation of manteau is always one of the concerns of students, administrators and university officials. The purpose of this study was to identify apparel characteristics and personal values affecting the manteau selection considered by female students of Isfahan University of Technology. To this end, a questionnaire was developed based on the input of the focus group participants. Then, 116 individuals with the age average of ~22.5 years were randomly selected to fill the questionnaires. The collected data and information were analyzed using statistical descriptive and factor analyses. The results showed that factors such as education level (BSc., MSc., and Ph.D.), type of clothing style (chador, manteau) and marriage status (single, married) had more impacts on the manteau selection criteria (i.e., design, mode, price, comfort, fitness, brand, color, shopping, tightness, height, material). According to responses of the participants, the main manteau characteristics were found to be comfort and fitness. The key factors affecting decisions concerning manteau shopping include shopping behaviors, decoration & style and suitability & adaptation.

Generally, nano fibers are referred to as fibers whose diameter is less than 500 nm and the length to diameter ratio is greater than 50. Production of high-fidelity fibers has attained remarkable interest of researchers due to unique properties and applications. Electrospinning is an effective technology for the preparation fibers in nano scale. In this method, nano-fibrous mats are produced with stretching of polymer solution or melt in a very strong electric field that is produced between the needle and the collector. Some characteristics of mats structure that affected on their properties are fiber diameter, diameter distribution, porosity, molecular structure, mechanical properties, and surface properties. The mats properties controlled by changing the environmental conditions of production, material properties of soluble or melt, and processing parameters of fiber production. The features control of the produced mats has caused a wide variety of applications. The most important uses of mates are textiles, wound dressing, drug release, synthetic tissue, catalyst, and filtration. In this study, we focus on the electrospinning basics for the production of mats, specification and effect of various factors on mats properties, bio-polymer that are used to produce mats and mats applications. The results of study say specific features can be induced by controlling microstructure of the  electrospun mats for different applications.