صدیقه جوانمرد

Fashion is an obvious embodiment of the cultural and social identity of any society, which is especially of great importance in the modern era. Today, fashion brands are presenting their designs by relying on existing drafts such as ancient archetypes, myths and political, social and cultural thoughts in order to attract the audience and increase popularity and sales. This research has been conducted to address fashion discourse and the question of how to influence the discourse system of society through fashion, relying on Yuri Lotman's Semiosphere Theory, to examine three advertising posters of Dior brand. To answer this question, the research hypothesis is: Fashion can influence the social system by using value structures and challenging discourse. The results indicate that fashion as a semiosphere can pass through its borders and filters from other semiospheres at different times with different thoughts, and it is affected and presents itself. Borders in the semiosphere like a permeable membrane can turn "foreign matter" into "familiar matter". In this research, it is shown that semiospheres with the same topics in different eras have different cultural meanings. In one era, they have a sacred archetypal and mythological concept, and in another era, they have the meaning of entertainment and astrology, while they are described as literary and artistic works in another era. Finally, they are rooted in a specific concept or thought, but they are considered as precursors of each other and find different semantic cues.

Fashion is a global industry that pollutes the environment by using natural resources. Sustainable fashion is a solution to deal with the environmental risks of the fashion industry, with the aim of preventing the waste of resources in the production and consumption sectors. The data of applied and descriptive-analytical study are collected through library research, are analyzed based on semantic semiotic approach of discourse in light of Jacques Fontaine's theory of transparency and prosthesis and Landowski’s adaptation system. The main issue is to see how fashion can create the conditions for a discourse that allows the transition from a system of destruction to an ideal system of the environment. Based on this, seven examples of brand activities have been purposefully selected and examined in terms of environmental sustainability and transparency. The results show that stimuli such as celebrities and environmentalists with their actions are able to create a desirable discourse system. It is suggested that governments and the private sectors establish companies to collect old textiles using the theory of transparency and adaptation and explanation of fashion prostheses and their relationship in the sustainable fashion industry, and  protect the environment as well as contribute to job creation.