دکتر سمیه باصری

Textile processing industries are one of the major hazardous sources from an ecological point of view that produce large amounts of toxic and dangerous waste containing heavy metals every year. Heavy metal accumulation and contamination in water and soil is a serious problem throughout the world due to their non-biodegradable nature, toxicity, abundant sources, and accumulative behavior in the environment. There is an urgent need to explore biocompatible and safe ways for textile dying industries to use environment benign route. Recently, there has been greater interest in the use of natural products in the dyeing industry due to improving international awareness of waste disposal, water pollution, and the environment. In the present work, Pistacia shell and Amaranth were considered as bio-compatible mordant and dye for the wool dyeing process. The research method is practical in terms of purpose and response surface methodology based on Box-Behnken Design (BBD) was used to design experiments and minimize the amount of consumables and production waste. The effects of three main parameters i. e. dyeing time, dye concentration, and citric acid concentration on the color performance of wool yarns were investigated and the optimum conditions were specified. The validity of the model for optimization and prediction of the process with a low number of experiments was established by experimental results (low difference between adjusted correlation coefficient (0.9832) and predicted coefficient value (0.9307)) and also by a high value of model correlation (0.9927). Also, it was found that all independent factors, the quadratic effect of dyeing concentration, and the interaction terms citric acid-dyeing concentration were significant at a confidence level of 95%. The results show that the Pistacia shell used as a bio-mordant can improve the affinity of wool yarns to the dye extract and obtain acceptable dye fastness properties. The use of Pistacia shell as a biodegradable and new sustainable bio-mordant in the dyeing industry resulted not only in increasing dyeing efficiency but also in minimizing the environmental problem of agricultural waste and byproducts. Hence, the proposed novel approach might serve as an excellent and economical replacement for the common metallic mordants and provide a space for new businesses with value-added at no environmental costs.

Many important materials throughout the world are composed of a variety of textiles, which are stored and presented in museum collections, galleries, and libraries. These textiles are one of the most important elements of cultural heritage and interpret essential objects that document the past human life, artistic creations, international trade, agricultural development, technological developments, and their cultural and social values.  As a result, it is necessary to study and apply suitable methods to protect and conserve these kinds of unique heritage textiles for our future generations. The method of conservation of these cultural-historical textiles is one of the most versatile branches of conservation and depends on various parameters. A number of bio-deterioration of cultural-historical textiles and also the disadvantages of conservation methods on these objects, human health and the environment, show the need for evaluating the bio-degradation mechanism of different microorganisms on these kinds of textiles and the use of latest methods for their conservation. In this way, the present work aims to investigate how cultural-historical textiles have been degraded, as well as the latest conservation methods. To achieve the purpose of the research, the qualitative content analysis method was used. The main research questions are what is the mechanism of biodegradability process of textiles? What is the importance of nano technologies in the protection of historical textiles? The results showed that one of the newest and most effective methods of protecting cultural-historical textiles against erosion caused by biological factors is the use of nanomaterials. These panicles have been intensively studied for various textile applications and demonstrated to provide multi-functional performance such as self-cleaning, release of dirty, protection against ultraviolet rays, antimicrobial properties, long-lasting, and multi-functional performance without compromising the intrinsic properties of the textile, which can be utilized to protect the cultural-historical textiles and slow down their degradation processes.

Plant dyes have been used in the dyeing process of persian carpets for many years. In this study, jujube fruit, a new source of plant dye, was introduced, and its dyeability on wool yarn was investigated. The results showed that jujube is a vast source of bioactive compounds and can be considered as a good candidate for wool dying without any mordants. Response surface methodology was applied to optimize the natural dying process and investigate the simple and simultaneous effects of the main parameters. Results also showed that the value of the correlation coefficient of the model was high (97.60 %), and there was a low difference between the experimental color strength value and the predicted value (0.64 %). So, the RSM method could predict and optimize the wool dyeing process with few experiments. Jujube was found to have agronomic potential as a natural dye in wool dying, producing good fastness properties without any mordants.

The world bank estimates that almost 20% of industrial water pollution is caused by textile industry. Chemical dyes have used in dyeing industries once they have good fastness properties, are resistance, and show wide range of color shades. Considering the environmental concerns, these colorants have certain disadvantages such as they are toxic, non-degradable, and carcinogenic. On the other hand, fabric and clothing industries are major sources of environmental pollution especially in developing countries such as Iran. The mass consumption of clothing and also their common methods of design and production have led to increased environmental pollution due to the disposal of vast amounts of non-biodegradable wastes, ultimately faced the country with several problems. As a result, new approaches are going to be developed to renewing the use of scrap and waste materials in clothing production aimed at safeguarding the environment. The use of waste agricultural dyes is also an environmentally friendly alternative, since they are non-carcinogenic, less toxic, biodegradable, and produced by cleaner production processes. The question that arises is whether clothing design and production processes can be improved based on the facilities of the country in accordance with the sustainable development principles. It appears that empowerment of women in sustainable development topics can be an ideal solution for achieving this goal. What support this idea is the women impact on the sustainable source management, social communication, and the country’s education system. The purpose of the current research is to design and produce the women social clothing by using the fabric scraps and agricultural waste dyes. In terms of the type of study and in terms of the practical purpose, the method of present study is a descriptive-survey way and its purpose is an "applied" one. The instrument used for data collection was a questionnaire. In this way, this work was produced four women social clothing by dying the fabrics with chamomile colorant and the peels of pomegranate, walnut, and onion and also by using the fabric scraps. The reflection of this design method was examined among the female students of BA and MA courses in carpet, textile design and printing, art research, and handicrafts industry from the art faculty of Semnan university. A sample size of 102 students was chosen using a simple random sampling. SPSS software was used to analyze the data. The findings obtained from this study showed that women has a positive and important effect on the sustainable development in environmental issues and the increasing women’s awareness and capacities in this context is necessary. This research also indicates that the components of designed garment exception of the body characteristics are accepted by the statistical community. The results also show a positive relationship between the girls' awareness of the principles of sustainable clothing development and their satisfaction with the designs done.

With the growing awareness about cleaner surroundings, using natural materials in textile dyeing has been developed recently. In this way, in this research, one of the galls of the oak tree named Sichka was selected as a sample of cultural waste, and the optimal conditions of wool dyeing were investigated for the first time. The results show that sichka is a vast source of polyphenolic and tannins compounds and then can be considered an excellent candidate for wool dyeing and produced outstanding antibacterial properties. Results indicate that for the conditions used in our experiments, the optimum dyeing conditions are dye concentration of 45 % at the temperature of 80 ºC, time of 60 min, and pH of 4.5. The results also show that the wheat barn and citric acid were used as the bio- mordants to increase the affinity of wool yarns to the dye extract and improve dye fastness properties. It provides an excellent way to protect the ecosystem as much as possible and a space for new businesses with value-added.

Tiles from Islamic times and their unique decorations are one of the main manifestations of deep spiritual concepts and cultural events, which are changed to one of the treasures of the Islamic art. These decorations have several abilities in the field of design and visual communication and are important in the contemporary applied arts. The documentation of the present research is the Islamic architectural works, especially tiles of Nasir al-Molk mosque of Shiraz. Studying and investigating the tile decorations of this mosque can help to recognize the cultural identity of it. This paper attempts to answer the question by analyzing and describing the collected data in a field and library about decorating arrays of this building. This reflects how the tile designs of this historical building can be used in textile design and interior home decoration. In this way, first we take pictures from the motifes of the tiles so they are evaluated and analyzed. In the next step, existent capabilities of these motifs be investigated for textile design. Finally, the suffiecent motifs are selected and changed and textile design for interior home decoration is performed. The findings of the research show that however most of the motifs used in Nasir al-Molk mosque of Shiraz is affected by west decorative arts and are naturally and non-abstract, but the principles of aesthetics and the specific features of the Iranian tradition have been deliberately and timidly taken into consideration by the designers of the time. So these designs have sufficient applied and visual capabilities to use applied arts, especiaaly textile design, in accordance with Iranian identity and the standards of the modern society.

Traditional clothing is one of the most important elements of cultural heritage that in different periods of Iranian history and culture has always been of particular importance. Clothing such as language, can be identifed the ethnic, social, and geographical identities and also determine socio-economic status of people. In fact, clothing is as a set of linguistic signs that is material to an understanding of the signs of identity can be used. As a result, evaluation of traditional clothing in a land, as past, present and future, is an important area for researching and will give valuable subjects to apparel designers and manufacturers. Gaba is an original and old Iranian art that has long been used by mens and womens. In this article, we have tried to use the library documents and analytical methods to study the status and importance of gaba in Iran from ancient times to today, in terms of size, style stitching, decorations and its applications in different jobs should be considered. Based on these data, the effects of five basic factors (geographic-continental, cultural-ethnic, lifestyle, the relations with other countries and nationals, socioeconomic conditions of people) on structural patterns and decoratings of gaba has been investigated.

Conductive polymers such as polypyrrole (PPy), polyaniline and polythiophene have foreseeable use in various products such as chemical-sensors, transducers, antistatic coatings, conductive fibers and smart textiles. Supercritical carbon dioxide (SC-CO2) is a ‘green’ solvent that can be used in chemical processes. Although, none of the aforementioned polymers are soluble in SC-CO2, but precipitations take place during the polymerization. Given the fluorophilicity of SC-CO2 and the strong interaction between SC-CO2 and carbonyl groups, the unique combination of fluoroalkyl groups and carbonyl groups makes the polymers highly soluble in CO2 at moderate pressure and temperature. The blends of conductive polymers with another polymer, which are often referred to as conductive composites, are generally produced conductive fibers. As a non-toxic and environmentally acceptable solvent, SC-CO2 may also be beneficial in tailoring the properties of the composites by control of sorption and desorption processes.

A three-phase model is often used to investigate the structure of semicrystalline polymers. Some of the polymeric chains lay in-between crystalline and amorphous phases so-called liquid-crystal structures. Liquid-crystalline polymers consist mainly of one-dimensional rod-like groups placed in the main chain or side chain. A great number of liquid-crystalline states have been reported, ranging from those exhibiting only long-range orientational order, nematic and cholesteric phases, to those exhibiting both long-range orientational and positional order, the smectic phases. Liquid crystalline structures can be organized into three classes, lyotropic, thermotropic, and mesogenic side group compositions. As the liquid-crystalline structures consist of polymeric chains with para-crystalline order and has a key role on the ultimate properties of textile fibers, it will be important to learn about this structure and the post-treatment changes such as drawing and thermal annealing that occur in this structure. Designing new polymer processes or improving upon old ones can only be achieved by exactly knowing the mechanisms of microstructure development and the mesomorphic transitions in the textile fibers exhibiting liquid-crystalline behaviour.

Supercritical fluids have found numerous promising applications due to its excellent properties. A number of research groups have also investigated the application of scCO2 to textile dyeing. Dyeing in supercritical fluids has been identified as a new and acceptable method that has been replaced with conventional dyeing methods of not discharging waste aqueous effluent containing colored compounds and concentrated electrolytes. Today, there is a need to reduce the amount of wastewater containing dye, chemical agents, and the like in the conventional method for the dyeing of textiles from the viewpoints of the cost of wastewater treatment and environmental pollution. In this way, a new dyeing method using supercritical CO2 fluid, supercritical fluid dyeing, has been developed. Dyeing in supercritical CO2 is carried out analogous to aqueous systems. Both decisive tasks of water at dyeing, which means the transport of dyestuff and heat to the fibre, are in the new dyeing process replaced with supercritical fluids. The new dyeing method is particularly attractive as it is non-toxic, non-flammable, and cheap. In addition CO2 has mild critical conditions and can easily be recovered and recycled after use. The aim of this paper is to provide the reader with an up-to-date overview of this subject. Wool and silk fibers have found several applications in textile industry especially in hand-knotted carpets. In this paper, various methods for the dyeing of these fibers in supercritical CO2 has been investigated, which is, at the moment, the limiting step of this technology.

POY PET fiber samples were uniaxially drawn below the glass transition temperature (Tg) at various draw ratios to obtain filaments with different transient structures. The transient structure was composed of polymeric chains with para-crystalline or mesomorphic order and played a key role on the ultimate properties of fibers. Therefore، the study of the post-treatment mesomorphic structural changes would be of great interest. Initially the samples were exposed to supercritical CO2 under tension and tension-free conditions to induce morphological changes in their structures. The evolution of micro-structural changes under exposure to supercritical CO2 was investigated by conventional methods such as DSC، FTIR، birefringence and mechanical properties. A good correlation was obtained between the results of various analytical studies. Analyzing the results of DSC and FTIR showed that the amount of extended chains and transient structure developing during cold-drawing increased with the draw ratio. The results showed that exposure to supercritical CO2 led to the absorption of CO2 molecules into the free volumes of amorphous phase of the samples and increasing the crystalline phase and lowering the transient structures in the treated fibers. Sample treatment conditions play important role on the structural changes and in transforming the oriented chains of the mesophase into the crystalline or non-crystalline domains. PET fibers exposed to supercritical CO2 under tension present higher degree of crystallinity and molecular compactness in the amorphous domains but lower values of transient structures than the non-tension exposed samples. Exposure to supercritical CO2 gave rise to such structural changes as crystallization، orientation، and mesomorphic transitions. Hence، this method is a promising approach for tailoring structural changes in PET samples. In this paper، samples of POY PET fibers were uniaxially drawn below the glass transition temperature (Tg) at various draw ratios to obtain filaments with different transient structures. The transient structure composed of polymeric chains with paracrystalline or mesomorphic order and has a key role on the ultimate properties of fibers. So، it will be interesting to learn about the post-treatment mesomorphic changes that occur in this structure. The samples were exposed to scCO2 under and without tension-conditions to induce morphological changes in them. The evolution of micro structural changes under exposure to scCO2 was investigated by conventional methods such as DSC، FTIR، birefringence and mechanical propreties. A good correlation was obtained between the results of various analyses. Analyzing the results of DSC and FTIR showed that the amount of extended chains and transient structure developing during cold-drawing increased with the draw ratio. Results showed that exposure to scCO2 led to the absorption of CO2 molecules into the free volumes of amorphous phase in the samples as well as increasing their crystallinity and decreasing the amount of transient structure in the treated fibers. Sample treatment conditions have an important role on the structural changes and in transforming the oriented chains in the mesophase into the crystalline or non-crystalline domains. PET fibers exposed to scCO2 under tension present higher values of crystallinity and molecular compactness in the amorphous domains but lower values of transient structures than the samples exposed without tension. Exposure to scCO2 gives rise to such structural changes as crystallization، orientation، and mesomorphic transitions. Hence، this method is promising for tailoring structural changes in PET samples.