فصلنامه علوم و فناوری نساجی
سال دهم شماره 2 (تابستان 1400)

In this study, using more bio-compatible solutions, deep eutectic solvents, are recommended to improve the properties of cotton fibers chiefly dye uptake. Urea hydrochloride/ethylene diamine eutectic solvent was used due to its unique properties in case of ability to cause swelling without any structural destruction and negative effect on the strength of cotton substrate, low viscosity and ease of use. This eutectic solvent was synthesized with a molar ratio of 1/3 respectively for Urea hydrochloride and ethylene diamine and applied on a cotton fabric at room temperature in a shaker for 2 hours. The variation of physical and mechanical properties of modified cotton fabrics in a term of strength, percentage of elongation, degree of swelling (cm3/100g) and gloss value were measured. Also cross- sections of fibers in treated samples were evaluated by SEM images. Dyeing properties of dyed modified samples (with congored) including K/S values, dyeing speed and half dyeing time were calculated. All of the results compared with samples treated in sodium hydroxide solution (160 g/L) and ethylene diamine(pure) as a reference and untreated sample as a control. Finally, changes in chemical properties such as crystallinity were evaluated using X-ray diffraction method. The obtained results confirm the effectiveness of this new approach in modifying of cotton fabrics without any negative changes in the desired properties of the fiber.

In today's advanced world, due to the expansion of industries and the use of machinery in factories, noise has become an inevitable part of life. This caused man to pay more attention to the sense of hearing and to study acoustics among the basic subjects. One of the methods to control noise pollution is the method of absorbing sound waves. In different acoustic designs, porous sound-absorbing materials have been considered. In this regard, textiles have been studied due to their ductility and Porosity. In this study, Warp Knitted Spacer Fabric(WKSF) was produced on a by double needle bar Rachel machine. Then, polyacrylonitrile (PAN) nanofibers were coated on (WKSF) by a single-nozzle electrospinning device with different electrospinning durations. The sound absorption of (WKSF) coated with PAN nanofibers was investigated by impedance tube method in the frequency band of 1000-5000 Hz. The experimental results showed that the coating of PAN nanofibers on (WKSF) increases the sound absorption coefficient at all frequencies.

Today, the technical and engineering applications of textiles have received much attention from engineering researchers. It can be said that the most attention in this area is focused on medical textiles. There is a special group of medical textiles called compression garments, the function of which is to apply pressure to the body and was used for the first time for Pressure Therapy. The most important applications of these garments are to treat burns and varicose veins. The principle of treatment in these garments is the amount and distribution of pressure on the body, which is determined by the physician. The dimensions and material of the pressure garments should be chosen in such a way that the desired pressure is applied to the patient's body. For this purpose, one of the best methods for predicting pressure is to use simulation using finite element methods. In this research, a three-dimensional model of contact and pressure between the pressure garment and the human body is presented using ABAQUS software. Initially, the model was designed as a cylinder and the values of pressure, strain and stress on the hand and the pressure garment as well as pressure distribution showed that the model was properly designed and implemented in software. Then, the modeling was performed conically using real body sizes and pressure garment and the results were compared with the experimental results. Comparison of experimental results and model results showed that this model well simulates the pressure distribution and contact between the hand and the pressure garment. The method used in this research is a simple and practical method for model validation.

The main objective of the present article is the assessment of the tendency of female students of clothes designing towards the clothes inspired by the elements of Iranian traditional clothes. One of the motivations for buying clothes is the use of historical elements. This descriptive study, using a questionnaire survey consisting of twenty-three questions registered the opinions of one hundred sixty participants. To measure the reliability of the questionnaire, alph Cronbach method was used. The face and content validity of the questionnaire were evaluated by Bartlette and KMO tests. Data analysis was carried out using SPSS software and Spearman’s correlation and linear regression analysis. Findings showed the factors of appearance and form of clothing, fabric quality and sewing, clothing design, pricing and supply at the level of 0.127, 0.214, 0.379, 0.264 and the factors of religious factors, social classes and cultural conditions at the level of 0.397, 0.377, and 0.223 had an effect on consumers' willingness to buy.

Mathematical, statistical, heuristic and meta-heuristic algorithms have been proposed with the aim of reducing waste in the clothing industry. On the other hand, the idea of zero waste based on the creativity of the pattern designer has been pursued for a long time. This idea focuses on preventing the production of waste when drawing a pattern for a garment, rather than removing it during the marker planning phase, based on the creativity of the pattern designer, who is familiar with the structure of the garment, the pattern, and the location of parts. Therefore, study tries to evaluate and analyze the possibility of eliminating waste based on this thinking in the production of several models of skirts. Variables that cause waste production in the pattern drawing and cutting stage of these skirts were identified by studying conventional methods of pattern drawing namely Müller, Gerlavin and Metric. Then, the most appropriate method of pattern drawing which ensures the optimal arrangement of the pieces was selected. The fabric waste was completely eliminated or minimized at the pattern drawing stage by removing the waste-generating variable or changing the way it is used. This capability was proved in the production of eight skirt samples.The present study showed that, with the help of pattern designer creativity, while maintaining the overall structure of the dress, using standard patterning methods and presenting a creative style of skirt, waste can be completely eliminated or greatly reduced.

In this study, the reasons for women's use of abnormal clothing were investigated by random selection of 120 women in Tehran by completing two questionnaires. The validity of the questionnaire was confirmed by two methods namely form-content and calculating divergent validity and structural validity was assessed by calculating the factor load of the questionnaire questions. The reliability of the questionnaire was confirmed by calculating Cronbach's alpha and also calculating the combined reliability coefficient. Statistical analysis of data in SPSS22 and Smart PLS softwares showed that clothing and individual characteristics are simultaneously the cause of the spread of abnormal clothing subculture in the community but, the second factor is more effective than the first. The effect of not paying attention to the color combination, its compatibility with the body, consumer taste and the desire to be more beautiful young in promoting this subculture is more than other cases. Social class traits influence the choice of inappropriate clothing more than person's personality, her religious beliefs, and cultural characteristics. Escape from religious beliefs, the young's attention to social class, self-exaltation and the desire to be one, lead them to this style of clothing. Inability to produce quality and attractive fabrics, inefficiency of some fashion designers, incorrect training along with some other policies make the situation worse.