فصلنامه علوم و فناوری نساجی
سال یازدهم شماره 4 (زمستان 1401)

Nowadays dyeing of textiles with natural dyes has been considered according to environmental effects based on lower using of the synthetic dyes and chemical auxiliaries. In present research, the dyeing parameters including; type of mordant, concentration of mordant and concentration of clove have been investigated. The color strength (K/S) value and the color coordinates (L*, a*, b*, C*) of samples were obtained using calorimeter in CIELab color space. The results showed the dyed samples in presence of Cu and Al as mordant have higher lightness (L*) compare with dyed samples dyed with Fe. The ultraviolet protection results showed higher blocking effect of sample in presence of clove against photodegradation of methylene blue (MB) under sunlight irradiation. The antibacterial assessment of the dyed samples showed reduction of bacteria rate against S. aureus (95%). Also washing fastness assessment of the dyed samples showed the great durability of clove on wool in presence of mordant.

Today, dyeing with vegetable dyes has been welcomed by consumers due to its compatibility with the environment. Turmeric is a plant with many dyes, which has many healing, antibacterial and antimicrobial properties and has the ability to dye textile fibers, including acrylic. In this research, it has been tried to investigate the colorability of acrylic with turmeric vegetable dye with different mordants under different conditions.Research shows that processes such as fiber mordanting will help establish a bond between acrylic and turmeric. Also, the light and washing fastnesses of the samples is largely dependent on these processes. Therefore, acrylic yarn without mordant and with 5% of different mordants of potassium aluminum sulfate, cupper sulfate II and ferrous sulfate II by pre-mordant method and simultaneous-mordant method in two different acidic pH, 3 and 5, and in three different room temperatures, 60 °C and boiling temperature with 10% of turmeric dye powder were dyed.The results showed that the affinity to absorb turmeric dye by acrylic is high, and the orange-lemon color is obtained without mordant and with potassium aluminum sulfate mordant. Also, Turmeric creates light to dark brown shades with cupper sulfate and ferrous sulfate mordants. Acrylic had a tendency to absorb dye at room temperature and 60 °C. Also, the results showed that changing the pH of the dyeing bath from 5 to 3 had no effect on the absorption of turmeric dye. The best fastnesses were related to samples mordanted with ferrous sulfate with light fastness equal to 5 and washing fastness equal to 8.

Considering the widespread use of fabrics in various uses and the importance of their deformation under different forces as well as the mechanical properties expected in the final application, it is important to evaluate the properties such as the deformation and surface strain of the fabric. In conventional methods, the strain of the fabric is provided by the strength measuring device in general, so that the determination of the strain of each part of the fabric requires the use of a strain gauge device, and in this case, only the strain of one part of the fabric can be measured. However, in this research, the change of shape of the fabric and the determination of the strain of different parts of the surface of the cotton/ polyester woven fabric with plain structure using the method of correlation of the images before and after the elongation have been discussed. According to the results obtained from the degree of correlation of different parts of the fabric, it can be said that this method can be a suitable criterion for evaluating the strain and surface deformation of woven fabrics.

In order to create a successful brand, it is necessary that first of all its target market as well as target audiences are checked and the existing risks of failure can be minimized with behavioral analysis. nowadays, many products start advertising before entering the market and seek to create a sense of trust and increase feedback. In this paper, one of the essential items is to examine the influencing variables for the target community and also examine the mood of the audience. One of the products that depends on individual desires and tastes, and also the brand is one of the main features, is sports products. One of the problems seen in Iran is the lack of special attention to sports product brands for Islamic Iranian. In this research, it was tried to investigate six influential variables including background conditions, causal factors, intervening factors, central phenomenon, strategies and consequences in branding sports products for women in the country, and a model was developed using PLS structural equation statistical software. The results show that the variables of the causal factors had a significant effect on the variables of the central phenomenon, and they also had a significant effect on the strategic variables. This means that creating the right quality and feeling of trust in products is more important than creating visual identities, personality and mental image of the brand. According to the presented model, the basic factors are the start of an effective brand in women's sportswear. Finally, the competitive advantage of creating appropriate strategies in line with customers' demands also plays a significant role in keeping customers loyal to the brand. The highest level of statistics was also related to the impact of strategies on brand outcomes in this research, which shows that a suitable strategy in branding women's sportswear can create more emotional engagement and brand loyalty.

Surrealism is one of the movements, which in practice was initially published by Breton in the Journal of the Surrealist Revolution. Many painters and artists have practiced the style, including the Spanish artist, Salvador Dali. Salvador Dalí is addressed as the source of inspiration for surrealist dreams. He had collaborated with costume designers such as Elsa Sciapilarli to create prominent and perdurable conceptual works of art together. Currently, there are many designers in the field who are inspired by the outstanding works of this surreal artist as well as others who create outstanding designs. Iran Droudy is an Iranian surreal artist who has held more than 43 exhibitions of her designs worldwide. Here in this article, the works of these two known artists are studied and the ways to inspire the works of surreal artists in conceptual clothing design are discussed.. The methods used in this research are descriptive-analytical and the library method was employed for data collection.In a comparative comparison between the works of Salvador Dali and Iran Daroudi, it can be concluded that one of the characteristics of Dali's works is the use of objects and it is repeated in some of his works. He rejects logic, wisdom and natural order in his paintings. It gives it a dreamy and ghostly quality. Dali used his works to convey social and political messages to viewers. While in Darudi's works, the form of the works is shown as if the whole universe is the same and the subject stands out in the center. The centrality of the subjects is drawn in the act of crossing heaven and earth. The light in the paintings is the possibility of hope, which the painter looks at, which moves in the viewer's mind and soul and penetrates deep into his soul.That’s not to say that Surrealism should be shelved entirely when it comes to fashion. For all its reputation as a male-dominated movement, the Surrealists were undeniably some of the 20th century’s most influential people, for both their philosophy and distinctive aesthetic. But contemporary fashion designers must express a much greater degree of precision as to what and why they are channeling Surrealist motifs. Fashion, like any art form, lends itself to continual recontextualisation.

The purpose of this research is to investigate the factors influencing consumer choice based on the unusual graphic design of clothing packaging. The current research is a descriptive-surveillance research of causal-correlation type. In this research, there are 384 personnel and managers of private graphic companies in Amol city to provide product packaging designs. Data analysis and research method according to research variables that include an independent variable perceived characteristic, a dependent variable purchase intention, a mediating variable perceived beauty and three moderator variables tendency to innovation. Gender and Education are formed. Also, structural equations have been used in PLS software to check the proposed hypotheses. The results showed that gender and education moderate the relationship between perceived characteristics and purchase intention. And the willingness to innovate has a significant relationship with the perceived characteristic. This research helps clothing manufacturers to consider components such as beauty, color, package size, geometric dimensions of the package, contents and written design of the package for better understanding and willingness of the consumer to buy.