homa maleki

The use of natural dyes as a sustainable and environmentally friendly approach in the textile industry has significantly grown. In this study, the potential use of different parts of Centaurea behen L. as a natural dye for wool fiber dyeing was investigated, and the effect of various dyeing conditions on its color properties, lightfastness, and wash fastness was evaluated. Finally, after conducting statistical analyses, the wool dyeing process using the natural dye extracted from this plant was optimized. Analysis of variance (ANOVA) results demonstrated a significant effect of various dyeing variables, including dye concentration, mordant concentration, temperature, dyeing duration, and pH of the dye bath, on color strength. Consequently, using response surface methodology (RSM), optimal dyeing conditions were determined to be a temperature of 90°C, a dyeing duration of 90 minutes, a dye concentration of 150%, a mordant concentration of 5% (based on fiber weight), and a pH of 8 for the dye bath. These optimized conditions resulted in remarkable improvements in choroma, hue angle, and color strength, with the final outcome being a yellow color shade. By utilizing different parts of the plant, and in the presence of various metallic mordants, diverse color shades were achieved. In terms of color fastness evaluation, samples dyed with the leaf part of the plant exhibited higher lightfastness and wash fastness. Mechanical property analysis of the dyed yarns indicated that the dyeing process had little effect on the mechanical performance of the fibers.

For centuries, carpet has been one of the prominent cultural tools in representing Iranian customs, traditions and culture from one generation to another. Hand-woven carpet has been produced in Iran for a long time, as artistic handicrafts as well as for daily use. Iranian hand-woven carpets have an original and unique identity in terms of raw materials, weaving tools, weaving methods and designs. The characteristics of hand-woven carpets are examined from both aesthetic and practical perspectives. From the practical point of view, the properties of thermal insulation, acoustic insulation, and the performance of hand-woven carpets as a floor covering have been studied. A review of the literature shows that most of the research reports have been published in applying hand-woven carpets. The focus on other aspects such as the physical-mechanical properties, durability as a floor covering, the thermal and acoustic insulation properties of carpets, and the effect of construction parameters and texture variables has rarely been studied. In the present article, an attempt is made to review the literature and focus specifically on the functional properties of thermal and acoustic insulation of hand-woven carpets and to discuss the benefits of wool fibers as pile. Optimal thermal and acoustic insulation properties of hand-woven woollen carpets, along with the benefits of comfort, natural ability to improve indoor air quality, safety, and beauty, give consumers a good sense of satisfaction and will have a significant impact on the perceived quality.

Hand-woven fabrics encompass the broad spectrum of handicrafts in the South Khorasan province, Iran, which have been highly regarded by the people of this region from both the artistic and practical point of views. This traditional art, which is known as "Tun”-weaving or "Tu"-weaving in South Khorasan, has widely been produced in almost all villages of this area and has played an important role in local entrepreneurship and family economy. Although much progress has been made today in the textile industry, the preservation of the traditional procedures and patterns is very important as a main part of the culture, history, and identity. The aim of this study is to introduce the original patterns, designs, and the weaving methods of traditional fabrics (Tun) in South Khorasan, especially in the Khoshk, Khrashad, Gorid Bala, and Shuristan villages. The type of this research is analytical with the qualitative approach, and the method of collecting data is literature review, as well as field studies. The results indicate that Tun-weaving product is a kind of fabric that is produced on a wooden handloom equipped with 2 or 4 heddles. The raw materials used for Tun-weaving were cotton and silk yarns in the past, and today, viscose yarns are used for this purpose. Chaparbaf, Genti, and Kheshti are the most common patterns that have been considered for Tun-weaving in most of the studied cases. These visual elements were taken from nature and engraved in the weaver's mind as the prototype.