An Inquiry into the Visual and Semantic Structure of Zoroastrian Embroidery Motifs

A type of needlework known as Zoroastrian embroidery (Zartoshti-douzi) was common as decorative art in ancient Iran. The art of ornamenting womenchr('39')s clothing with patterns arranged in a coherent visual and aesthetic way prompts following question: Which visual and semantic structures were allowed to be sewn as Zoroastrian embroidery motifs onto womenchr('39')s dresses? The inquiry is particularly highlighted since they were seen as the most striking cultural symbols in the ethnic garment of the time, bearing the grave responsibility of preservation and continuation of Zoroastrian womenchr('39')s identity throughout the historical period of Islamic Iran. Accordingly, the present study attempts to conduct a formal and thematic analysis and decode these motifs. Such studies can provide a deeper insight into the dominant artistic sphere, and the resulting knowledge will serve a reliable reference for understanding other Iranian ornamental needlework in garment design. Data analysis shows that motifs were taken from natural, floral, and animal elements, which, in ancient Iranian culture and belief, carried symbolic values and meanings as eternity and immortality, recreation, thriving and growth, enlightenment, exuberance and dynamism, wisdom, blessings, and fertility. These concepts were regarded as realizations of womenchr('39')s wishes, desires, and ideal aspirations, and were sewn onto pieces of clothing one way or another in accordance with their extent of sacredness. Visually speaking, they were used in a variety of forms from realistic to abstract, and manifested colorful imagery using different sewing styles and silk threads.