A comparative study in women's fashion during Fath-ali-Shah and Naser-al-Din Shah's court

Change of women’s clothing during the Qajar era, has given a reason to many experts and researchers to consider the issue in their writings, even so short. Given that not much research has been performed on how and why the clothing style changed during Qajar era as well as its relationship with fashion’s evolution, a deeper and more detailed research seems to be necessary in order to identify the reason for change of women’s costume. The current comparative study aims to evaluate the similarities and differences of women’s costume in Fath-ali-Shah and Naser-al-Din Shah’s court, focusing on fashion and comparing indoor/outer garment components. Indoor garment components included Shaliteh (Breeches), shirts, Arkhalig and headwear, and outer garments included Chador, Chaghchoor and Burqa. Considering that some factors, such as religious views, politics, economy as well as psychological aspects of the kings have direct impact on fashion and its changes, this study using a qualitative approach and descriptive-analytical methodology and emphasizing on two Qajar dynasties, aims to evaluate available pictures collected from this era and study the documents and logbooks which are about costume classifications and frequently used fashion in Qajar’s court, in order to identify and introduce those elements which have influence on evolution or stability of clothing style in this era. Finally, this study has shown that women’s religious view was an important forbidding factor against drastic changes in clothing style and fashion. In other words, women had not a passive role in choosing their clothes. It was also found that kings’ will and views were two significant factors impacting women’s fashion and clothing styles in the kings’ court.