Polo & Naqsh-e Jahan: Redefining the Culture and Identity of Iranian- Islamic Architecture

Naqsh-e Jahan Square in Isfahan has always been recognized as a remarkable urban square of Iranian Islamic architecture in the Safavid era due to its unique buildings, proportions, and qualities that astonish the visitors. However, many believe that the dimensions and the proportions of this urban square are strongly influenced by the proportions of the polo field. Therefore, this article tries to comprehensively understand Naqsh-e Jahan Square as an architectural work and aims to scrutinize the goals and factors affecting its construction, users, and activities in space (content aspects) and its identifying elements in the Safavid era.

The present study uses a combination of research methods. In this research, both descriptive and analytical methods have been used. In this regard, the drawings and writings of Safavid and post-Safavid explorers (1907-1617) and the historical texts have been studied as the main sources of research. The main research components were identified regarding the qualitative nature of the research in analyzing th research problem and the use of interpretive-historical strategies. The research questions try to answer the following: How has the accurate knowledge of the hidden aspects of the polo gamee influenced the identifying factor of Naqgh-e Jahan Square in reviving its original values? And secondly, how have the field elements (water creek, the rows of trees, pavements, stone polo posts) organized the historical qualities and the original values of its urban space as a unique heritage?

According to the historical documents, “leveling Naqsh-e Jahan Square for using it as a polo field and horseback riding field” was the first step in constructing Naqsh-e Jahan Square. After its completion in 1602, a row of shading plane trees along a stream of running water were built that surrounded the square. The central area of the square was left bare, where various activities such as polo game, wooden javelin throw, athletics, military parades, celebrations and competitions, sales, peddling, and dozens of other activities took place. Twelve main entrances and several small entrances were built for these purposes. The porch of the Ali Qapu Palace overlooked the square, and from above, the Shah and the courtiers and foreign ambassadors could watch the polo plays and other popular games of the time. In the middle of Naqsh-e Jahan Square, the polo field was confined on the east and west by a row of trees adjacent to the water stream, and on the north and south by two stone pillars (the posts of polo field). The foreign explorers have described the field elements and expressed the prosperity and activities in the field, especially the polo game and the music plays in their narrations more or less. Deep scrutiny in the historical travelogues and descriptions of Della Valle, Figueroa, Olearius, and Chardin between 1617 and 1664 indicates the glorious game of polo and the field were at the primes of their life during their first 60 years. Since none of them have described the polo play, it can be deduced that this game was quite frequent and that the public mastered the game and knew its rules. The game of polo in Shah Square was at the peak of its glory and prosperity up until the end of Shah Abbas’s reign, concurrent to the highest level of the cavalry power. After this period, until the conquest of Isfahan, polo was prioritized, and the military forces were strengthened, based on the interest of the successors. After the conquest of Isfahan in 1722, no explorer, including Morier, Flandin, Dieulafoy, Holltzer, and D’Allemagne, have mentioned the game of polo between 1809 and 1907, until Brugsch described the field as deserted and abandoned in 1886. D’Allemagne considers the demise of polo in 1887 when the game of polo was not practiced in Shah Square anymore. Finally, between the autumn of 1935 and the spring of 1937, Schmidt recorded the initial changes in the polo field (gardens and ponds) that led to the formation of its new identity.

The explorers’ descriptions of the square from the beginning of its construction to the beginning of the nineteenth century and the study of the square elements indicate the simultaneous design and implementation process in all the square elements, including the water creek, trees, pavements, polo posts. All these components can be regarded as the elements of a uniform architectural scenario. The implementation of the surrounding water streams and trees to organize the polo field created a barrier against dust by horse ridings and provided a pleasant environmental comfort (water streams and trees) and climatic comfort (natural airflow and shading) for the spectators. Also, the wide view of the surrounding stores and the allowed presence of people in the square, the stores and their roofs around the square, and the creation of multiple entrances and exits to control the movements show that the designers of Shah Square thought comprehensively about these elements and were completely aware of the activities, including polo plays. They have designed and built the square based on the frequent urban activities. This activity is an integral part of the polo field identity and performance. Therefore, the revival of the field’s original values requires the revival of polo with narrations and the music on a scale commensurate with its original design.