فصلنامه علوم و فناوری نساجی
سال یازدهم شماره 1 (بهار 1401)

In this research, the dyeing of nylon fabrics with sumac as a natural dye was investigated and the effect of keratin treatment on the dyeing properties was studied. For this purpose, first keratin was extracted from chicken feathers by the reduction hydrolysis method, and then surface modification of nylon fabric with the extracted keratin was performed via the exhaustion method. The chemical structure of the treated fabrics was evaluated by FTIR and the results proved the successful keratin treatment on the surface of the fabrics. The obtained results showed high dye absorption of keratin-treated fabric in comparison with mordant-treated and untreated fabrics. Thus, keratin could be used for enhancing the absorption of natural dyes. Colorfastness properties of the dyed fabrics with sumac were evaluated and high washing and rubbing fastness were attained. Finally, the antibacterial properties of the dyed fabrics against both gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria were performed and the results showed the antibacterial activity of sumac.

Cellulose acetate fibers do not inherently have an affinity for direct dyes. One ‎of the methods to create affinity for this type of dye is saponification of ‎cellulose acetate fibers, which converts some acetate groups to hydroxyl ‎groups. However, the alkaline wastewater from saponification is a high ‎concentration alkaline wastewater. Therefore, other techniques should be ‎investigated to create hydrophilic groups on the surface of these fibers. In this ‎research, cellulose acetate fibers were first exposed to ultraviolet radiation and ‎then chemical and dyeing properties were investigated.SEM micrographs ‎showed that UV pretreatment makes fiber surface rough and porous.‎‏ ‏Moreover, FT-IR results showed that acetyl groups decreased after UV ‎treatment. Meanwhile, increasing irradiation time led to an increase in color ‎strength and fastness properties. Thermodynamic parameters showed that UV ‎treated fabric had higher affinity for direct dye in comparison to untreated ‎fabric. Freundlich isotherm was found the best model to describe the ‎adsorption of direct dye onto both untreated and UV treated cellulose acetate ‎fabrics. However, UV treated fabric showed higher adsorption capacity in ‎comparison to untreated fabric.‎

Every year, billions of dollars are spent in the world to buy clothes, and the development path of many advanced countries is derived from the growth and development of this industry. This is despite the fact that currently Iran's clothing industry is not facing success even at the level of the domestic consumer. The current research seeks to identify and rank the most important reasons for the desire of domestic consumers to buy foreign clothes in Qom province. The current research is applied in terms of orientation and a quantitative study in terms of methodology. Also, due to the use of interviews and questionnaires as data collection tools, the research has a field nature. The theoretical population of the present research is the clothing industry experts of Qom province, including business managers, industry organization experts and companies' marketing unit, and the sampling method in this research is done in a judgmental way. Expertise and Prioritization questionnaires were used to collect research data. For this purpose, 19 factors affecting the willingness of domestic consumers to buy foreign clothes were identified through literature review and interviews with experts. Then, these factors were screened with fuzzy Delphi. The screened factors were prioritized by Seca technique. According to the obtained results, lack of proper branding, lack of investment in advertising, lack of work and fraud in production, inappropriate design and high price are among the most important reasons for the willingness of consumers in Qom province to buy foreign clothes. As a result, by focusing on the correction and strengthening of the above-mentioned items, a big step can be taken in the direction of consumers' tendency towards domestic clothing, as well as a stronger presence of this industry in international markets.

The traditional clothes and textiles of Sistan and Baluchistan are one of their most valuable cultural assets due to their many uses, and they show the visual dimension of the social and cultural identity of these people. On the other hand, in recent years, the determination of the cultural emblem of different cities and ethnic groups, which can briefly represent the whole culture of the region in line with the development goals, has been considered. The important and necessary for the re-emergence of the manifestations of tradition to integrate and accompany them with new trends. The purpose of this research is to investigate the culture and identity of clothes and textiles of Sistan and Baluchistan and to extract traditional and geometric motifs from the pottery of Kalpurgan region. Also, in order to design women's community clothes, geometric motifs inspired by the clay motifs of Kalpurgan village have been used. The result of this research is to create a collection of new geometric motifs extracted from the native region of Sistan Baluchistan. In the following, their application in clothing design and the use of these motifs were carried out so that they can be available to clothing designers as a suitable source of inspiration. Creating a sample collection for women in the form of social wear can also be one of the appropriate ways to display traditional Iranian motifs.

The present study aims to investigate the effect of consumer arrogance on clothing style confidence. In terms of nature and method, the research is a descriptive-survey research and has been conducted with an applied purpose. The statistical population of the study consists of all customers of Yazd. Statistical sample was determined using morgan's formula of 384 people and sampling method is available by sampling. The data collection tool is a questionnaire that was used to measure self-esteem and arrogant consumer behavior of Ruvio and Shoham (2016) questionnaire and to measure confidence in cover style and its components; Joyner Armstrong et al. (2018) questionnaire was used. Content-face validity and construct validity (confirmatory factor analysis) of the research instrument were reviewed and confirmed and its reliability was measured using Cronbach's alpha coefficient test and considering that the alpha value for all components of the research was more than 0.7 the reliability of the research tool can be confirmed with confidence. In order to analyze the data, descriptive and inferential statistics were used and structural equation modeling was used by SPSS and LISREL software. The results of this study showed that the selfish and arrogant behavior of the consumer has a positive and significant effect on the components of light continuity, importance of appearance and originality, and has a negative and significant effect on the components of aesthetic perception and creativity.

The constant development of the hand-made carpet production and trade institutions and the present conditions of this industry in the country makes the necessity for more use of scientific management arise from the experience of the elites. The primary purpose of this research is to form a network of management indicators that views the management issues, sub-indexes, and their factors from the perspective of traditional art and industry. For this purpose, in the first phase, the required indicators were extracted and categorized by conducting open surveys among the elites of this industry and using the grounded theory methodology data foundation method. The results of this phase were determining 72 indicators and organizing them in homogenous formats. In the next step of this research, the Fuzzy DEMATEL qualitative method was used to examine the relationship and the importance between the obtained groups from the qualitative phase. The results of this step conclude that paying attention to exports and creating productivity in economic consequences are the most effective indicator of the network management of this industry.